As fashion month comes to a halt, it's interesting to reflect on the countless shows, events, parties, etc.. From being able to attend New York Fashion Week shows and events, to constantly remaining updated with the media and press, SOUL was able to immerse itself within the hectic string of events in a way that it's never experienced before.
From the long month of attending events and refreshing pages to ensure that the team at SOUL is familiarized with designers' approach with their collections and upcoming trends, Magsino breaks down a few collections that left a powerful impression during this year's Fashion Month.
Taking off in the very beginning of New York Fashion Week, Monique Lhuillier brought an essence of regality and elegance throughout her Spring/Summer 2018 collection that was truly inspiring. Seeming to draw not only from the traditional grace with apparel, but also incorporating a modern flare (such as the silver sequined ensemble on the far right), Lhuillier understands the medium between old and new. Along with the idea that Lhuillier is able to execute a medium, what resonates mostly about her collection, is that her collection can apply to a large variety of styles that people are interested in. Her collection is both: "I'm a queen" and "I'm a HBIC".
Love for Gucci will remain endless--not from the wanna-be fashionista hype, but from the eastern influences that Gucci has consistently incorporated throughout their collection. The Met's costume exhibit showcased "China through the Looking Glass" and ever since then, the appreciation for eastern culture and arts has only expanded. Gucci truly did an astounding job with retaining what "high fashion" truly is: dramatic and artistic with a narrative attached. The collection is extremely theatrical--so what is one supposed to think when you see this collection? From the two ensembles (from which I love the most in the collection), one processes the dramatic turn of a dark and mysterious subtle approach to apparel, to a high-powered and electric presence. Similar to Lhuillier (see above), the versatility is what is alluring to the collection.
An approach that was special while retaining the Vera Wang aesthetic, this season's presentation was similar to what is felt when visiting the Museum of Modern Art in New York City: uncomfortable. Contemporary art is something that truly gains the idea of "mixed feelings" and honestly, I'm not a fan. However, it is the uncomfortable feeling that I receive from Vera Wang's presentation that is captivating. Resembling something that might be used as a costume for Queen Amidala's handmaidens, the ensembles that are presented above are extremely elegant and charming as they are an infusion of conservative and seductive dress. From the high necks to the off-the-shoulder, Wang's approach for the collection again, pays homage to historical dress while making sure it remains modern.
The colors and combination of loose and tight fits bring an encouraging approach to the upcoming Spring/Summer season as Furstenberg diligently showcases her collection in New York. What draws me most to this collection is the fact that the combinations that are used are completely opposite of how I would picture them to be.. Because of this uncertainty and switch of pace, Furstenberg's collection gains an immense sense of appreciation as the collection ultimately implies a sense of versatility within the fashion powerhouse as a whole. The role of furs and leather (shown on the right) is impressive as the two are generally known to stay separate from one another--but I love a hint of fur always.
As there were countless raves about how YSL's collection bringing romance under the Eiffel Tower in Paris, nothing truly sparked my attention in their Spring/Summer 2018 collection... except for those Yeti boots. Yves Saint Laurent has been pumping out statement footwear, such as the sequined boots, and the Yeti boots only add more to their signature image. The approach to having fur as footwear is definitely unique, as the concept remains tricky because the direction can either go in the direction of tacky or tasteful. The Yeti boots produced by Yves Saint Laurent overall take the direction of tackling a chic approach when engulfing one's feet in a fur ball.
After the distasteful utilization of the Kardashian Clan in their campaigns, Balmain seemed to lose a little credibility as their pieces almost reflected a high-end version of Kanye West's "Yeezy" collections (which I find quite tacky as well) with the bright colors and overuse of 'bling'. However, Balmain's Spring/Summer 2018 collection in Paris truly showed Rousteing's new route of darker shades within an avant-garde collection. Consisting of dramatic dresses that swayed in a way that screamed "class", the sequined details on the dresses was a reminder that one can steal the night with just a subtle sense of detail. Balmain's collection ultimately showed a sense of maturity within Rousteing's interpretation of the label.
Nicolas Ghesquiere remained true to French regality as the finely detailed overcoats featured in his Spring/Summer 2018 collection consisted of a intense sense of majesty. The heavily detailed overcoats and high necked overcoats pay major homage to France's rich history in apparel which ultimately concludes that Louis Vuitton reigns supreme of fashion month. It's incredible how Ghesquiere is able to pair sneakers with pieces that scream sophistication without it looking as if it was an outfit that was put together last minute. Louis Vuitton often gets normalized as plenty of people love to slap on that disastrous checkered print on their purses and bags but this collection truly contrasts this idea as it excels in fine tailoring and detailing. The royal essence truly does it for me and I will definitely keep my eyes pointed in the direction of Louis Vuitton when looking for my next statement piece.
Article by: Isiah S Magsino, Editor in Chief at SOUL
Images shown are NOT owned by SOUL